- 12-gauge round copper wire: about four to five feet (possibly more, depending on the length of your bracelet, or if you use this design to make a necklace instead)
Working off a spool of 12-gauge wire, flush-cut the end.
Measure and flush-cut several 2-1/2-inch lengths of wire, ensuring that each wire length is cut flush on both ends. I made nine of these lengths for my bracelet, but you may need more or less depending on how long your bracelet is or if you use this design to make a necklace or choker.
Place one wire piece in the jumbo tapered round mandrel pliers.
You can see that I marked my tool with a Sharpie pen to help me make every loop the same size.
Bend the wire all the way around until it touches itself. Flip the link over and repeat, which will shape a large figure-8 link.
If the link is a bit misshapen, place it on a steel bench block and hammer it firmly using either a hard-plastic mallet (shown) or a rawhide mallet.
As an alternative to the previous step, you can straighten out your link by squeezing it firmly in the chain-nose pliers.
Make several figure-8 links (as many as needed for your particular project), and set them aside.
Again working off the spool of 12-gauge wire, form loops of wire on the very back of the jumbo tapered round-nose pliers as shown. Make sure that each loop is made in the same place on the tool, so that every link will be identical in size and shape.
Flush-cut the wire end using quality flush cutters suitable for 12-gauge wire.
Use the cutter to pull the next ring slightly apart from the coil you made earlier, and flush-cut off a ring.
Make a big pile of these jumbo-sized jump rings. I used 25 rings in the finished bracelet pictured.
To “condition” your jump rings, pick them up individually and wiggle the ends together until they meet perfectly. If one wire end pokes up a bit above the other, use the tips of the chain-nose pliers to bend the wire end down until the jump ring is perfectly round with ends that meet flush.
To further condition and work-harden your rings—which is especially important with big, jumbo-sized rings like these—hammer them firmly with a hard-plastic or rawhide mallet.
Make a big pile of rings! At least 25.
Pick up a ring and open it up sideways using chain-nose pliers. Insert one end into another closed ring.
Wiggle the two ends together as in step 12 to close the second ring firmly. Place the two rings on your work surface as shown.
Repeat steps 15-16, this time inserting the wire end into the two previously linked rings.
Close the third ring as in step 16.
Pick up a fourth ring, open it sideways, and insert one end into the three linked jump rings.
Close the fourth ring as before, and place the linked rings on your work surface as shown.
Pick up a fifth ring and, as before, open it sideways in order to insert one end through the four previously linked rings.
Close the fifth ring firmly and place the linked rings on your work surface. Repeat these steps until you have five sets of five jump rings, intertwined and linked in the rosette pattern.
Pick up one of the large figure-8 links you made previously, and open up one loop sideways in the chain-nose pliers.
Run the wire end through a rosette cluster and close the loop sideways, ensuring that the wire end meets itself firmly as shown.
Repeat this step until you have placed four figure-8 links onto a rosette cluster. Separate the figure-8 links as shown, with doubled sets on each side of a cluster.
Repeat steps 23-25 with a second rosette cluster. You should begin to see the pattern emerging.
Repeat steps 23-25 again. You now have three rosette clusters joined together with doubled figure-8 links. Continue in this fashion until you have connected all five rosette clusters with doubled figure-8 links.
To make a hook for your bracelet, flush-cut about 5-1/2 to 6 inches of 12-gauge wire. This measurement doesn’t have to be exact.
Use large flat-nose pliers to fold this wire at the half-way point.
Bend up the bent wire end using the tips of the jumbo tapered round mandrel pliers.
Use large round mandrel pliers to bend the wire up and over, forming a hook.
Optional: Hammer to two wire ends on the hook using a chasing or planishing hammer. The idea is to slightly flatten the wire ends, making them easier to bend in the next step.
Place the two wire ends in the round mandrel pliers and bend the wire around until it touches itself.
To place the hook on one end of the bracelet, open the two loops (made in step 33) sideways, run the opened wire ends through a rosette cluster, and close the loops sideways.
Here is how the bracelet looks so far. If it’s long enough at this point, it’s finished (lacking a good polish, of course!). However, if you would like to lengthen it a bit, continue:
Flush-cut a piece of 12-gauge wire approximately 2-1/2 inches in length and form it into a figure-8 link as described in steps 2-6.
Grasp the link with chain-nose and flat-nose pliers and twist firmly so that each loop on the figure-8 is at a perpendicular angle to the other.
Open up one loop sideways and place it on a rosette cluster.
Here’s how the finished bracelet looks once it has been artificially aged in liver of sulfur.
Here’s how it looks on! Super big and chunky, and yet surprisingly comfortable to wear with a lovely drape around the wrist. Yummy!
Option: The finished bracelet as pictured was darkened with a hot solution of liver of sulfur, and then polished with 0000 steel wool from the hardware store. Instructions for this process are provided in the Accent Texture with Liver of Sulfur course.