- 40 mm (approx.) round filigree component (1)
- 30 mm (approx.) textured metal disc (1)
- 15 mm (approx.) large hole stone rondelle (1)
- 28 mm (approx.) round filigree component (2)
- 20 mm (approx.) textured metal disc (2)
- 8 mm bezel cup (2)
- 8 mm cabochon (2)
- 14-gauge fine silver wire (3 inches)
- 16-gauge fine silver wire (3 inches)
- Coordinating leather cord (12–18 inches)
- Crimp end caps to fit leather cord (4)
- 16-gauge, 5 mm ID jump rings (6)
MAKING THE CENTERPIECE
The 40 mm filigree component, the 30 mm textured disc and the 15 mm large-hole rondelle will be used to fabricate the centerpiece of the necklace.
Place the filigree component on the bench block. Place the tip of the center punch on the center of the piece. Tap the end of the center punch with the utility/household hammer. This creates a divot in the metal.
Tape the filigree piece to the wooden block, using the painter’s tape.
14-gauge fine silver wire will be used to rivet the pieces of the centerpiece, therefore, the holes drilled must accommodate 14 gauge wire.
Place the #52 drill bit in the drill. Place the tip of the drill bit in the divot in the center of the filigree piece and drill a hole into the center of the filigree piece.
Test fit the 14-gauge wire in the hole. Using the round diamond needle file, enlarge the hole as necessary to just accommodate the 14-gauge wire.
Repeat Steps #3 and #4 using the textured metal disc.
To form a cup with the textured disc, place the disc in one of the depressions of the wooden dapping block.
Place the rounded end of the dapping punch against the metal. Using the utility/household hammer, tap the free end of the dapping punch. Move the dapping punch around the metal piece and continue to tap with the hammer. The metal disc will conform to the shape of the depression.
To achieve the most uniform shape, start with a large, shallow depression. Move the metal disc to deeper, smaller depressions a step at a time, until the desired shape is achieved.
MAKING THE BALL HEAD RIVET
A ball-head rivet will be used to rivet together the components of the centerpiece.
Cut a 1–1½ inch piece of 14-gauge fine silver wire. Grasp one end of the wire with the cross-locking tweezers.
Light the butane torch and place a bowl of quench water under the flame.
Hold the free end of the wire in the flame, at the tip of the inner blue cone. An orange flare may appear at the end of the wire. The wire will start to melt and ball-up on the end of the wire. When the desired size ball is achieved, remove the wire from the flame, and allow the wire to cool for a few seconds. Then quench it in the water.
To assemble the centerpiece, place the rivet through the rondelle, then through the textured disc and finally through the filigree piece. The ball of the rivet will be on the front of the centerpiece.
Invert the piece and place the ball-head in one of the small cavities of the tiny dapping block. Use the smallest cavity that accommodates the head of the rivet. This will help stabilize the piece. There should be a small amount of space between the top of the dapping block and the face of the piece. This will prevent any marring of the piece when the rivet is set.
Hold the piece firmly so the ball-head rivet does not wobble. It is helpful to place a finger on either side of the rivet to stabilize it.
Place the #14 Rivet Gauge† over the tail of the rivet and hold the assemblage of pieces in place, stabilizing the pieces with two fingers. Hold the piece firmly in place and place a finger on the end of the wire to control it when cut.
Rivet Gauges† come in pairs and are marked with the wire gauge to which they correspond. Only one of the pair is used with ball-head rivets. Rivet Gauges† stamped with a 14 are to be used with 14 gauge rivet wire, those stamped with 16 are to be used with 16 gauge rivet wire and those stamped with 18 are to be used with 18-gauge wire.
With the back of the flush cutters firmly against the Rivet Gauge†, cut the tail of the rivet wire. Hold your finger over the tip of the wire to control the end while cutting.
ALWAYS wear safety glasses when cutting wire and metal—small pieces of wire or metal can fly into unprotected eyes.
Remove the Rivet Gauge†, exposing a short stub of rivet wire.
Using the peen side of the chasing hammer, gently tap on the exposed stub of rivet wire until it begins to spread and flatten.
Continue tapping until the stub is completely flattened. It will resemble a tiny mushroom cap.
A 27 mm filigree piece, a 20 mm textured disc, an 8mm bezel cup and cabochon are used to form one of the secondary components of the necklace.
Because 16 gauge wire will be used to form the rivet in the secondary components, holes to accommodate 16 gauge wire must be made in the 27 mm filigree pieces and the 20 mm textured discs.
Using the permanent marker, mark a spot at the center of the filigree piece.
Using the 1.25 mm hole-punching pliers and the mark as a guide, punch a hole in the center of the filigree piece.
Use the round diamond needle file to enlarge the hole very slightly to accommodate the 16-gauge wire.
Repeat Steps 15-16 for the 20 mm textured disc.
Repeat Steps 15-16 for the bezel cup.
To start riveting the first secondary component, place a 16 Rivet Gauge† on the bench block. The Rivet Gauge† should correspond to the gauge of rivet wire (16-gauge in this case), which also corresponds to the size holes punched in the metal.
Rivet Gauges† come in pairs and are marked with the wire gauge to which they correspond. Rivet Gauges† stamped with a 14 are to be used with 14 gauge rivet wire, those stamped with 16 are to be used with 16 gauge rivet wire and those stamped with 18 are to be used with 18 gauge wire.
Stack the filigree piece on top of the Rivet Gauge.
At this point, the next step would normally be to stack the to-be-riveted pieces on top of the metal strip. However, both of the components (the dapped textured disc and the bezel cup) have recessed areas, which would prevent accurate measuring/cutting of the rivet wire.
The thickness of the metal comprising the dapped textured disc and the bezel cup must be accounted for in another way. A #14 Rivet Gauge† will be used to take the place of the dapped textured disc and bezel cup—the thickness of the #14 Rivet Gauge† approximates the combined thickness of the dapped textured disc and the bezel cup. Stack a single #14 Rivet Gauge† on top of the metal strip to represent the dapped textured disc and bezel cup. Align all the holes.
Place the second #16 Rivet Gauge† on the stack and align all the holes.
Flush cut the end of the 16-gauge rivet wire. Pass the rivet wire through all the holes. The flat end of the rivet wire should rest firmly against the bench block.
Cut the rivet wire by pacing the flat back of the flush cutters firmly against the top Rivet Gauge. With one finger on the exposed end of the wire (to control it after it is cut), cut the rivet wire.
ALWAYS wear safety glasses when cutting wire and metal—small pieces of wire or metal can injure unprotected eyes.
Remove the top #16 Rivet Gauge† and the #14 Rivet Gauge†, exposing the stub of rivet wire.
Stack the dapped textured disc and bezel cup on the wire stub.
Select the largest Rivet Punch† that will fit inside the bezel cup. Place the flat end of the punch in the bezel cup, resting against the end of the wire stub. Tap the punch with the utility/household hammer until the wire stub is flattened inside the bezel cup.
Remove the assembly from the bench block, exposing the stub of wire on the back of the assembly.
Place the Rivet Punch† upright in the vise.
Invert the assembly and place on the upright Rivet Punch†, with the punch securely inside the bezel cup.
Using the peen side of the chasing hammer, tap on the exposed end of the wire stub until it flattens.
Place a cabochon in the bezel cup with rounded side facing up. Using the tip of the burnisher, push and roll the teeth of the bezel cup over the cabochon. Work on opposite points on the cabochon—i.e. north, south, east and west. Then work on the points in between, until all the teeth of the bezel cup are settled against the cabochon.
Repeat Steps 15-28 for the second secondary component.
Attach the components with the jump rings.
ASSEMBLING THE CORDS
Determine the final desired length of the necklace. Subtract the length of the linked centerpiece and the length of the clasp. The result is the length of leather cord needed to complete the necklace. Cut a piece of leather cord that long. Cut that leather cord in half.
Slide one of the crimp end caps onto the end of one piece of leather cord. The leather cord should extend the entire length of the crimp tube.
Using the Wubbers Classic Chain Nose Pliers, crimp the center band of the crimp end cap.
Repeat Steps 32-33 for the remaining ends of both pieces of leather cord.
Attach one leather cord to each side of the linked centerpiece, using a 16-gauge, 5 mm ID jump ring.
Attach the clasp.
The necklace is complete!