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  • by Gwen Youngblood 

    The Riveting Essentials riveting tools are a unique set of tools designed by this author to make riveting easy-peasy and foolproof. This course gives students opportunities to learn to use the Rivet Gauges, the Rivet Punches and the Tiny Dapping Block. In addition, students will learn some simple metal working techniques and turn filigree components and metal into a fabulous necklace.  

  •           MATERIALS          

    • 40 mm (approx.) round filigree component (1)
    • 30 mm (approx.) textured metal disc (1)
    • 15 mm (approx.) large hole stone rondelle (1)
    • 28 mm (approx.) round filigree component (2)
    • 20 mm (approx.) textured metal disc (2)
    • 8 mm bezel cup (2)
    • 8 mm cabochon (2)
    • 14-gauge fine silver wire (3 inches)
    • 16-gauge fine silver wire (3 inches)
    • Coordinating leather cord (12–18 inches)
    • Crimp end caps to fit leather cord (4)
    • 16-gauge, 5 mm ID jump rings (6)
    • Clasp

              TOOLS          

                   MAKING THE CENTERPIECE              

                   Step 1               

    The 40 mm filigree component, the 30 mm textured disc and the 15 mm large-hole rondelle will be used to fabricate the centerpiece of the necklace.

     

                   Step 2               

    Place the filigree component on the bench block. Place the tip of the center punch on the center of the piece. Tap the end of the center punch with the utility/household hammer. This creates a divot in the metal.

     

                   Step 3               

    Tape the filigree piece to the wooden block, using the painter’s tape.

     

                   Step 4               

    14-gauge fine silver wire will be used to rivet the pieces of the centerpiece, therefore, the holes drilled must accommodate 14 gauge wire.

    Place the #52 drill bit in the drill. Place the tip of the drill bit in the divot in the center of the filigree piece and drill a hole into the center of the filigree piece.

    Test fit the 14-gauge wire in the hole. Using the round diamond needle file, enlarge the hole as necessary to just accommodate the 14-gauge wire.

    Repeat Steps #3 and #4 using the textured metal disc.

     

                   Step 5               

    To form a cup with the textured disc, place the disc in one of the depressions of the wooden dapping block.

     

                   Step 6               

    Place the rounded end of the dapping punch against the metal. Using the utility/household hammer, tap the free end of the dapping punch. Move the dapping punch around the metal piece and continue to tap with the hammer. The metal disc will conform to the shape of the depression.

    To achieve the most uniform shape, start with a large, shallow depression. Move the metal disc to deeper, smaller depressions a step at a time, until the desired shape is achieved.

         

     

                   MAKING THE BALL HEAD RIVET              

                   Step 7               

    A ball-head rivet will be used to rivet together the components of the centerpiece.

    Cut a 1–1½ inch piece of 14-gauge fine silver wire. Grasp one end of the wire with the cross-locking tweezers.

    Light the butane torch and place a bowl of quench water under the flame.

    Hold the free end of the wire in the flame, at the tip of the inner blue cone. An orange flare may appear at the end of the wire. The wire will start to melt and ball-up on the end of the wire. When the desired size ball is achieved, remove the wire from the flame, and allow the wire to cool for a few seconds. Then quench it in the water.

         

     

                   Step 8               

    To assemble the centerpiece, place the rivet through the rondelle, then through the textured disc and finally through the filigree piece. The ball of the rivet will be on the front of the centerpiece.

     

                   Step 9               

    Invert the piece and place the ball-head in one of the small cavities of the tiny dapping block. Use the smallest cavity that accommodates the head of the rivet. This will help stabilize the piece. There should be a small amount of space between the top of the dapping block and the face of the piece. This will prevent any marring of the piece when the rivet is set.

    Hold the piece firmly so the ball-head rivet does not wobble. It is helpful to place a finger on either side of the rivet to stabilize it.

     

                   Step 10               

    Place the #14 Rivet Gauge over the tail of the rivet and hold the assemblage of pieces in place, stabilizing the pieces with two fingers. Hold the piece firmly in place and place a finger on the end of the wire to control it when cut.

    TECHNICAL TIP
    Rivet Gauges come in pairs and are marked with the wire gauge to which they correspond. Only one of the pair is used with ball-head rivets. Rivet Gauges stamped with a 14 are to be used with 14 gauge rivet wire, those stamped with 16 are to be used with 16 gauge rivet wire and those stamped with 18 are to be used with 18-gauge wire.

     

                   Step 11               

    With the back of the flush cutters firmly against the Rivet Gauge, cut the tail of the rivet wire. Hold your finger over the tip of the wire to control the end while cutting.

    SAFETY TIP
    ALWAYS wear safety glasses when cutting wire and metal—small pieces of wire or metal can fly into unprotected eyes.

     

                   Step 12               

    Remove the Rivet Gauge, exposing a short stub of rivet wire.

     

                   Step 13               

    Using the peen side of the chasing hammer, gently tap on the exposed stub of rivet wire until it begins to spread and flatten.

    Continue tapping until the stub is completely flattened. It will resemble a tiny mushroom cap.

     

                    SECONDARY COMPONENTS              

                   Step 14               

    A 27 mm filigree piece, a 20 mm textured disc, an 8mm bezel cup and cabochon are used to form one of the secondary components of the necklace.

     

                   Step 15               

    Because 16 gauge wire will be used to form the rivet in the secondary components, holes to accommodate 16 gauge wire must be made in the 27 mm filigree pieces and the 20 mm textured discs.

    Using the permanent marker, mark a spot at the center of the filigree piece.

     

                   Step 16               

    Using the 1.25 mm hole-punching pliers and the mark as a guide, punch a hole in the center of the filigree piece.

    Use the round diamond needle file to enlarge the hole very slightly to accommodate the 16-gauge wire.

    Repeat Steps 15-16 for the 20 mm textured disc.

     

                   Step 17               

    Repeat Steps 15-16 for the bezel cup.

         

     

                   Step 18               

    To start riveting the first secondary component, place a 16 Rivet Gauge on the bench block. The Rivet Gauge should correspond to the gauge of rivet wire (16-gauge in this case), which also corresponds to the size holes punched in the metal.

    TOOL TIP
    Rivet Gauges come in pairs and are marked with the wire gauge to which they correspond. Rivet Gauges stamped with a 14 are to be used with 14 gauge rivet wire, those stamped with 16 are to be used with 16 gauge rivet wire and those stamped with 18 are to be used with 18 gauge wire.

     

                   Step 19               

    Stack the filigree piece on top of the Rivet Gauge.

     

                   Step 20               

    At this point, the next step would normally be to stack the to-be-riveted pieces on top of the metal strip. However, both of the components (the dapped textured disc and the bezel cup) have recessed areas, which would prevent accurate measuring/cutting of the rivet wire.

    The thickness of the metal comprising the dapped textured disc and the bezel cup must be accounted for in another way. A #14 Rivet Gauge will be used to take the place of the dapped textured disc and bezel cup—the thickness of the #14 Rivet Gauge approximates the combined thickness of the dapped textured disc and the bezel cup. Stack a single #14 Rivet Gauge on top of the metal strip to represent the dapped textured disc and bezel cup. Align all the holes.

     

                   Step 21               

    Place the second #16 Rivet Gauge on the stack and align all the holes.

     

                   Step 22               

    Flush cut the end of the 16-gauge rivet wire. Pass the rivet wire through all the holes. The flat end of the rivet wire should rest firmly against the bench block.

     

                   Step 23               

    Cut the rivet wire by pacing the flat back of the flush cutters firmly against the top Rivet Gauge. With one finger on the exposed end of the wire (to control it after it is cut), cut the rivet wire.

    SAFETY TIP
    ALWAYS wear safety glasses when cutting wire and metal—small pieces of wire or metal can injure unprotected eyes.

     

                   Step 24               

    Remove the top #16 Rivet Gauge† and the #14 Rivet Gauge, exposing the stub of rivet wire.

    Stack the dapped textured disc and bezel cup on the wire stub.

     

                   Step 25               

    Select the largest Rivet Punch that will fit inside the bezel cup. Place the flat end of the punch in the bezel cup, resting against the end of the wire stub. Tap the punch with the utility/household hammer until the wire stub is flattened inside the bezel cup.

     

                   Step 26               

    Remove the assembly from the bench block, exposing the stub of wire on the back of the assembly.

     

                   Step 27               

    Place the Rivet Punch upright in the vise.

    Invert the assembly and place on the upright Rivet Punch, with the punch securely inside the bezel cup.

    Using the peen side of the chasing hammer, tap on the exposed end of the wire stub until it flattens.

     

                   Step 28               

    Place a cabochon in the bezel cup with rounded side facing up. Using the tip of the burnisher, push and roll the teeth of the bezel cup over the cabochon. Work on opposite points on the cabochon—i.e. north, south, east and west. Then work on the points in between, until all the teeth of the bezel cup are settled against the cabochon.

         

         

     

                   Step 29               

    Repeat Steps 15-28 for the second secondary component.

     

                   Step 30               

    Attach the components with the jump rings.

     

                   ASSEMBLING THE CORDS              

                   Step 31               

    Determine the final desired length of the necklace. Subtract the length of the linked centerpiece and the length of the clasp. The result is the length of leather cord needed to complete the necklace. Cut a piece of leather cord that long. Cut that leather cord in half.

     

                   Step 32               

    Slide one of the crimp end caps onto the end of one piece of leather cord. The leather cord should extend the entire length of the crimp tube.

     

                   Step 33               

    Using the Wubbers Classic Chain Nose Pliers, crimp the center band of the crimp end cap.

     

                   Step 34               

    Repeat Steps 32-33 for the remaining ends of both pieces of leather cord.

     

                   Step 35               

    Attach one leather cord to each side of the linked centerpiece, using a 16-gauge, 5 mm ID jump ring.

    Attach the clasp.

    The necklace is complete!

     

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