The S-Link Medallion Necklace is the perfect marriage of wire work and chain maille. This exclusive design, inspired by a unique arrangement of traditional S-Links, is both elegant and visually intriguing. The chain of the finished necklace measures approximately 18 inches long and the medallion centerpiece measures 1.5 inches square.
Before starting, please read the entire tutorial from beginning to end. You are sure to enjoy making and wearing this strikingly beautiful, handmade necklace.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
- 16-gauge, dead soft round sterling silver wire (2.5 feet)
- 16-gauge dead soft round copper wire for practice (2 feet)
- 20-gauge, dead soft round sterling silver wire (3 feet)
- Round sterling beads (4mm with 1.5mm hole)—56
- Sterling Silver Jump Rings
- 3.5mm inside diameter, 18-gauge--34
- 4.5mm inside diameter, 18-gauge--36
- 11.5mm inside diameter, 16-gauge—3
- 7.5mm inside diameter, 14-gauge—1 (for clasp)
- Classic Wubbers Medium Flat Nose Pliers
- Classic Wubbers Narrow Flat Nose Pliers
- Classic Wubbers Chain Nose Pliers
- Classic Wubbers Bent Nose Pliers
- Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers
- Wubbers Small Bail Making Pliers
- Crimping Pliers (Optional)
- Italian Super Flush Wire Cutters
- Dome Faced Chasing Hammer
- Steel Block
- 6-Inch Ruler
- Sunshine Polishing Cloth for cleaning and straightening wire
- Files—Flat metal (cut 2)
- Handy File--Disposable Two-Sided Acrylic Nail File--200/400 grit (optional)
- Euro Tool Brass Brush (Optional)
- Lortone Tumbler Set for tumble polishing (Optional)
Clean and straighten a 2-foot length of 16-gauge, dead soft round sterling silver wire. This may be accomplished by applying gentle pressure while pulling the wire through a Sunshine Polishing Cloth.
You will need to cut 8 lengths of wire to make the S-Links. Always starting with a flush cut end on your wire, measure and flush cut each piece of wire carefully to a precise length of 2 7/8”. Rather than marking your wire with a permanent marker, you may find it is easier to make accurate cuts by holding the wire directly on a ruler as shown, then flush cutting the end of the wire with your Super Flush Cutters.
Using light taps with a dome-faced chasing hammer on a steel block gently flatten each end of the 8 pieces of wire (photo 1). Take care not to lengthen or distort the wire by over-hammering. Make sure that each end is flattened in the same direction as shown in (photo 2). Smooth any sharp edges with a flat metal file (cut 2) or a Handy File.
To make the S-Links, first you will need to make a loop on each end of the 8 wires. Grasp the flattened end of a wire as shown and coil it around the small jaw of the Medium Wubbers Bail Making Pliers, making a complete loop (photo1). Repeat this on the other end of the wire, making sure that you curl the loop in the opposite direction (photo 2).
To finish shaping the S-Links, you will form two large curves on each wire. With a small loop turned toward you and held snugly down against the smaller jaw of the Medium Wubbers Bail Making Pliers; begin to roll the wire around the larger jaw of the pliers as shown in (photo 1). Continue rolling or curving the wire until the back of the loop touches the wire. The S-Link should now look like (photo 2). Flip the wire around and repeat on the other end to finish forming the S-Link.
To complete your S-Links, gently flatten each end using a dome-faced chasing hammer. Holding the S-Link with a pair of Classic Wubbers Bent Nose Pliers, lightly tap the end of the S-Link to flatten it slightly, taking care not to over-hammer or distort it (photo 1). You will notice that the large curves of the S-Link will begin to open slightly as you hammer. Using a pair of Classic Wubbers Medium Flat Nose Pliers, move the wire in a “back and forth” motion, gradually moving the S-Link back into a closed position (photo 2).
To form the medallion, choose the 4S-Links that are the most similar. If one of the 4 S-Links is slightly shorter than the others, it will work well to place it in the bottom position on the medallion. It is especially important that each of the side links be the same length. Arrange the S-Links into a square shape, making sure that all the small loops are turned in the same direction as shown (i.e., the small outside loops all curve to the left as you move around the outside edge of the medallion).
Open one of the 11.5 mm jump rings. Place 8 of the round, 4mm sterling beads onto the jump ring, and then close it (photo1). Lay this beaded jump ring into the center of the four S-Links that will form the medallion (photo 2).
Taking care to maintain the proper positioning of the S-Links as you work use a 3.5mm jump ring to connect the small loops of each of the S-Links to the beaded jump ring.
There should be two beads in-between each of the jump ring (photo 1). Connect each end of the S-Links to the adjoining S-Links with 2 of the 4.5 mm jump rings, using a total of 8 jump rings to form the medallion (photo 2).
Lay the medallion down on your work surface, placing two more S-Links so that one end of each adjoins one of the top corners of the medallion. The small loops on these S-Links should face opposite directions, with their placement being mirror image relative to each other.
Attach an S-Link to the top left corner of the medallion using 4 of the 4.5mm jump rings. Two of the jump rings will connect it to the S-Link laying across the top of the medallion and 2 will connect it to the S-Link that forms the left side of the medallion (See photo).
Connect the S-Link that is being added on the right in the same fashion as used in Step 12.
Open two of the 11.5mm jump rings. Place 9 of the round, 4mm sterling beads onto each jump ring, then close it. The 9 beads will almost fill the jump ring completely, making it somewhat difficult to close. However, the large jump ring is big enough that you may find it easier to close it with your fingers as demonstrated.
Using 2 of the 3.5mm jump rings, attach one of the large beaded rings to the S-Link extending from the top left side of the medallion.
Using 2 more of the 3.5mm jump rings, attach the other large beaded ring to the S-Link extending from the top right side of the medallion.
Taking care to place them in the same direction as the previous two S-Links added in Steps 12 and 13, attach the last 2 S-Links to the necklace with 2 of the 3.5mm jump rings. These S-Links should be attached to the large 11.5mm beaded jump rings so that 5 of the silver beads are toward the inside of the necklace, and 4 of the beads are toward the outside.
To continue on with the chain portion of this necklace, you will need to make 10 beaded links. Cut 10 pieces of 20-gauge, dead soft round sterling silver wire into 3” lengths.
Make a wrapped loop on one end of each of the 10 wires.
- The Small Wubbers Bail Making Pliers will make it easy to complete loops that are consistent and perfectly sized. With the large jaw of the Small Wubbers Bail Making Pliers closest to you, make a 90-degree bend about 1 inch from the end of the wire (photo 1).
- Then, wrap the wire around the large jaw of the pliers as shown in (photo 2).
- Reposition the pliers so that the small jaw is on the top side of the loop (photo 3).
- With a pair of Classic Wubbers Chain Nose Pliers, grasp the very end of the wire and wrap it around about 2 times as demonstrated in (photo 4).
- Flush cut the wire, making sure that there are no sharp ends.
Place 3 of the 4mm sterling balls on each of the wires with the wrapped loops.
- Complete each beaded link by wrapping a loop on the second end of the wire. To start the loop, place the jaws of the Small Wubbers Bail Making Pliers close to the last bead, leaving just enough room to make a 90-degree bend in the wire. If you hold the Small Wubbers with the large jaw closest to you (photo 1). The small jaw will serve as a convenient way to measure the length of the space needed to make about 2 wraps.
- After making the 90-degree bend, reposition your pliers so that the large jaw will be on the top of the bend. Wrap the wire over and around the large jaw of the pliers to form a loop. Reposition the pliers so that the small jaw is placed on the top of the newly formed loop (photo 2).
- Wrap the end of the wire around about 2 times (photo 3).
- Flush cut the wire, making sure there are no sharp edges left behind.
Close 20 of the 4.5mm jump rings and open 44 of the 3.5mm jump rings. Using 2 of the 3.5mm jump rings, connect one end of each beaded link to two of the closed 4.5mm jump rings. Each beaded link should now have 4 jump rings attached to one end as shown in the photo.
You will now build 2 lengths of chain, one for each side of the necklace. Using 2 of the 3.5mm jump rings, connect the end loop of a beaded link to a pair of the 4.5mm jump rings that were added in Step 21. Continue this process until each section of chain has 5 beaded links. Using a 3.5mm jump ring, attach a section of chain to each of the last two S-Links added in Step 17.
Place the small loop snug against the small jaw of the pliers (photo1) and proceed to make a larger loop as if you were making an S-Link.
- Lightly hammer just the large end of the S-Clasp (photo2). Using 2 of the 3.5mm jump rings attach the S-Hook Clasp to the left side of the necklace.
Place the small loop snug against the small jaw of the pliers as shown, and proceed to make a larger loop as if you were making an S-Link. Lightly hammer just the large end of the S-Clasp. Using 2 of the 3.5mm jump rings, attach the S-Hook Clasp to the left side of the necklace.
To finish your necklace, open and attach the 7.5mm jump ring directly to the beaded link on the right side of the necklace.
Once your S-Link Medallion Necklace is completely assembled, it is time to polish it. You may hand polish it with a Sunshine Cloth. To produce a flawless shine and to make your necklace feel silky smooth, it is recommended that the S-Link Medallion Necklace be tumble polished. When tumble polishing, begin by brushing the pendant thoroughly with a soft Euro Tool Brass Brush to even out the surface of the metal. Then, place the piece in a rotary tumbler and tumble 4 to 6 hours. For additional information about tumble polishing.
- 16-gauge, dead soft round sterling silver wire (2.5 feet)